Heading Upwind!!

After a fantastic stop over in Australia, we were yet again accompanied by strong winds leaving Geraldton heading North. This race was due to be the most tactical race so far up to Singapore. We would face numerous islands, reefs, fishing fleets, oil rigs galore, threats of piracy, squalls and numerous random objects (usually fishing pots of some description) that we’re not lit up that scattered the surface of the sea.


The weather was warm to start with but soon soared to unbearable temperature down below deck, easily hotter than crossing the equator in leg 1. We were slipping into our usual routine quicker and quicker each time we started races now and it wasn’t long until we had 1000 miles under our belts. As we made our approach to the Sunda straight we unfortunately missed out on some gate points after making a solo move far out west after the rest of the fleet headed east. The tables were soon turned when we managed to go from tenth to first so the move definitely paid off, only for us to sail into our own wind hole. Our fortunes were certainly mixed.

Soon after entering the straight we had managed to consolidate a third place with Cape Breton and Australia ahead of us but not by much. Cork were following in fourth with the rest of the fleet following in hot pursuit By this stage the weather was beginning to be particularly squally, and they were far more severe than during Leg 1. The rain was lashing and relentless, the winds gale force and it was a case of doing what you could to reduce the sail plan in as quick a time as possible. We had a knock down of our own (when the mast is nearly in the water) when we didn’t manage to do this in time. I was helming at the time and it certainly eclipsed our Leg 3 broach as the most out-of-control moment.


Within an hour the impact of the conditions was made evident on the fleet. A Pan-pan message then came in from one of the Clipper fleet although it was not clear at the time who it was from. We soon found out that Cork behind us hat hit a reef and were abandoning to life rafts. We were all totally shocked and with not much information minds began to race. We were nearly called back by the race committee to go and assist but this would only have put more boats in jeopardy and the boats behind Cork would be there sooner, so ourselves, Cape Breton and Australia carried on racing. There was soon a press release through saying that everyone was safe but unfortunately they were having to abandon the boat on the reef. It was incredibly sad news that there would only be 9 clipper boats left in the world. When Finland and California left the rescue scene no doubt local fishermen will have looted the boat for absolutely everything. The outcome of an investigation into the situation has yet to be released but as soon as it is I’ll blog about it as its no doubt one of the major incidents in the history of Clipper.


Racing continued although it was not clear because we were beginning to beat to windward who was on the winning and losing tack. As we made our final approaches it became clear we would have to settle for third. Unfortunately we lost out by a discouraging margin in the end to the other two, with Cape Breton finishing about a mile ahead of Australia with us around 30 miles behind. All in all it was a very incident full race but my favourite so far. Everyone is just glad that everyone on Cork is safe.

After a lengthy stop over in Batam/Singapore where fortunately I managed to fit in a great flying visit back to Melbourne we then set out on the ‘infamous’ upwind part of the whole race. To begin with the weather out of Singapore was superb and the fleet made excellent progress towards China, with Jamaica leading the way for most of the start. The first week passed in a blur before the action came to a head as we approached the gate. We had been in the top two for the whole first week but a wind whole and a slight detour east meant we were now in 7th with about 200 miles to go. It looked like we were going to miss out altogether. Obviously Pete our skipper had other ideas though as we soared back up through the fleet just in time to take the full 3 gate points! These were our first gate points of the race and we were overjoyed – it would mean closing the gap in the overall race to Finland and extending our lead over Hull and Humber and Cape Breton.



From here though the race changed dramatically. Off the coast of Taiwan a strong 30 knot plus wind starts to blow with a very strong current flowing in the opposite way. This makes for a truly horrible sea state where the boat would crash off the back of waves. Below decks it sounded like a grenade was going off as the hull slammed back down. The weather only got colder and colder as we headed further north and as bow man it was beginning to get very very wet and cold on the foredeck. We woke up to most watches with ice and frost on the deck, and so sail changes in these conditions were horrific and seemed to take about 5 times longer than usual as everyone was so cold.


It was not just onboard Jamaica that we were suffering though, the whole fleet were feeling the effects. Indeed we seemed to be coping with them better then most as we were lying in second place with only Australia a short way in front.


It was then that we were hit with another huge piece of ‘race news’. Team Finland had been dismasted! It was a disaster for them and the fleet, but again importantly everyone was safe. They were making passage for Taiwan to assess the damage and would motor from there to the finish in China. It only served to add further incident to the notorious Leg 4!


We didn’t quite make it in to China for my birthday which was a shame – I actually spent that in my bunk feeling terrible, so not the best day. We did arrive shortly after though into Qingdao, host of the 2008 Olympics. The marina was incredible and the reception we received was overwhelming. Broadcast live on national television we were mobbed by hundreds of journalists and a huge crowd of people. Having spent so long in such harsh conditions it was all a bit surreal but no doubt an experience I will remember for a long time to come.


Soon after the ceremony was over I just felt like collapsing. I didn’t realise how exhausted I was. It was time for a well earned rest, to enjoy the best that China has to offer and to catch up with my very patient girlfriend.